Ultimate Guide to Hermès Leather Types and Their Unique Features
When it comes to luxury brands, leather is often the first thing that comes to mind. Hermès offers an incredible variety of leathers, from classic cowhide to exotic skins, with almost endless options.
In this guide, we’ll explore the different types of Hermès leather and their unique characteristics. Knowing these details can help you choose the leather that best fits your style and lifestyle, so read on to discover everything you need to know about Hermès’ most iconic leathers.
Why Hermès Leather Stands Out
Hermès leather is renowned worldwide for its exceptional quality—and that quality is the brand’s biggest draw. Hermès carefully selects the finest materials from top-tier tanneries to create its products. If we include discontinued leathers, the brand’s selection is truly vast.
For example, while cowhide typically comes from the neck, back, or belly, Hermès reportedly uses only flawless leather from the back. Storage is handled with equal precision: specialized teams monitor temperature and humidity to ensure perfect conditions. This commitment to quality is a significant reason Hermès has earned its beloved status on the international stage.
Types of Cowhide Leather Used by Hermès
Cowhide offers the broadest range of Hermès leathers. All the classic Hermès bags, including Birkin and Kelly, are typically made from cowhide. Here’s a closer look at each type:
Togo
Togo comes from male calf leather and is officially called “Veau Crispé Togo.” “Veau” in French refers to a male calf under one year old. Introduced in 1997, Togo is now a Hermès staple, used in bags, wallets, notebook covers, and other small leather goods. It’s popular for its combination of softness, durability, and ease of handling, making it an excellent choice for first-time buyers. The grain varies by production year: newer leathers have finer grains, while older ones are more pronounced and plush. Togo is also known for its diagonal markings, called “veining,” which add a unique texture.
Epsom
Epsom, formally “Veau Epsom,” was introduced in 2004 as the successor to the discontinued Courchevel leather. Made from male calf, it is now Hermès’ most popular leather. Its delicate embossing and firm texture make it highly resistant to deformation, helping it maintain its shape over time. Epsom is lightweight, scratch-resistant, and easy to handle. It also offers bright, vivid colors, making it ideal for colorful pieces. The matte, sophisticated finish makes it perfect for both formal and casual occasions.
Veau Swift
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Introduced in 2006, Veau Swift—commonly called Swift—replaced the discontinued Veau Gulliver leather. It is said that Veau Swift was named after Jonathan Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels, making it a fitting successor to Veau Gulliver. While Veau Gulliver was incredibly soft, Veau Swift balances suppleness with resilience, and its smooth, silky texture develops a subtle patina over time. Although delicate, minor scratches and scuffs are easy to manage with proper care. Veau Swift is available in a wide range of colors: light shades are soft and understated, while dark shades are vibrant and bold.
Taurillon Clémence
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Formerly known as “Mou,” Taurillon Clémence debuted in 1992 and is a core Hermès leather alongside Togo and Epsom. It is used across the broadest range of Hermès items. Its defining feature is its soft, supple texture, which gives a relaxed, casual look. Over time, the leather becomes even softer, molding to your hand—perfect for those who enjoy developing a personal patina. Like Epsom, it is scratch- and wear-resistant, but because it comes from fully grown cows, it is thicker and slightly heavier. Depending on the production year, its grain may resemble Togo: older leathers have larger grains, while newer ones have finer textures.
Fjord
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Formally “Vachette Crispé Fjord,” this leather is softer than Togo and firmer than Taurillon Clémence, making it perfect for everyday use. It’s resilient, holds its shape, and resists scratches and water. Fjord is often used in casual bags like the Garden Party. Its durability makes it ideal for daily use, even for those hesitant to use luxury bags regularly.
Evercolor
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Introduced in 2013, Evercolor is a newer Hermès leather, known for its wide range of colors. It’s firm yet flexible, with a smooth, soft feel. Scratch- and deformation-resistant, it’s used in bags like the Kelly as well as smaller leather goods like wallets. Its matte finish appeals to both men and women. Though subtle at first, Evercolor develops a soft sheen with use.
Country
Launched in 2012 as “Vache Country,” this leather features larger embossed grains and a firm, textured feel. Like Fjord, it resists deformation and is mainly used for casual bags such as the Garden Party.
Vache
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Also called “Vache Natural,” this unprocessed cowhide resembles raw leather. It’s more prone to scratches due to minimal treatment, but allows enthusiasts to enjoy its natural texture and patina. It does not have the wrinkles seen in other cowhides and comes in black and brown.
Box Calf
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Named after the 1890s shoemaker Joseph Box, Box Calf is considered one of Hermès’ top-tier cowhides. Its polished, glass-like surface is smooth with minimal texture, giving it a refined, luxurious shine ideal for formal occasions. When people think of Hermès, they often imagine bright colors like orange or beige, but Box Calf is popular in more subdued tones such as black and chocolate. While scratches are more noticeable, Box Calf can be repaired and maintained for long-term use.
Grain d’H
Introduced in 2012, Grain d’H is smooth with a glossy finish and slightly firmer than other cowhides. It features a regular, woven-like embossing that gives it a unique texture. Grain d’H is used across a wide range of Hermès items, from bags to small leather goods.
Types of Crocodile Leather Used By Hermès
Crocodile leather is one of the rarest and most luxurious materials available, ranking among the highest grades of exotic leathers. It is lighter and firmer than cowhide, with excellent resistance to deformation. Because the different types of crocodile leather look quite similar, distinguishing them at a glance can be challenging. To make identification easier, Hermès stamps a small symbol near the brand logo or another discreet area to indicate the exact leather type. Below, we introduce each Hermès crocodile leather variety, along with its defining features and identifying mark.
Porosus
Porosus crocodile comes from Southeast Asia and Australia and is considered the finest crocodile leather among all exotic skins. Birkin bags made with Porosus can cost $6,510 USD, with some pieces exceeding $65,130 USD depending on rarity and condition. Also known as the “small crocodile,” Porosus features small, evenly aligned scales that create a refined, elegant appearance. Each scale has a small perforation known as a “pore.” While these pores are believed to function as sensory organs, their actual purpose remains unclear.
The identifying mark for Porosus crocodile is “Λ.”
Alligator
Alligator leather is sourced from the Mississippi alligator, which inhabits the Mississippi River basin in the United States. Because the species is protected and grows slowly, production is limited, making it one of the most valuable crocodilian leathers available. Unlike Porosus and Niloticus, alligator leather does not have perforations on its scales. Its scales are larger and have a more relaxed appearance, giving the leather a slightly casual yet distinctive look. Among Hermès items, the Bearn Soufflet long wallet is one of the most iconic pieces made from alligator leather. With its simple, elegant design, it remains highly popular among both men and women.
The identifying mark for alligator leather is “□.”
Niloticus
Niloticus crocodile leather is sourced from Nile crocodiles native to Africa. Because wild Niloticus hides have become increasingly difficult to obtain, Hermès now raises and produces its own through controlled farming. Its scales are rounded rectangles that line up symmetrically and evenly. Like Porosus, Niloticus also has small perforations, though its scales tend to be slightly larger. It is known for being highly resistant to shape loss.
The identifying mark for Niloticus crocodile is “··.”
Types of Lizard Leather Used by Hermès
Lizard leather is another member of the exotic leather family, like crocodile leather. While crocodile leathers are marked with distinct symbols depending on the type, lizard leathers are identified by a “–” or “=” symbol near the Hermès logo.
Lizard
Lizard leather is made from lizards found in Southeast Asia. It features smaller, evenly arranged scales and a beautiful, natural luster. Because only a limited amount of rawhide can be obtained from each animal, this material is typically used for small accessories such as wallets, charms, and compact handbags. Even in small items, lizard leather has a striking, luxurious presence. Its vivid colors and refined texture make it perfect as a fashion accent—whether through bright, eye-catching hues or more understated tones that highlight the delicate scale pattern.
Lizard Natura
Introduced in Hermès’ Fall/Winter 2007 collection, Lizard Natura emphasizes the natural character of the leather itself. Minimal processing allows the original texture and surface grain to remain visible, offering a raw, organic beauty that captures the essence of natural leather.
Types of Goat Leather Used By Hermès
Because goats are smaller animals and yield less usable hide, goat leather is considered a rare and valuable material. It is mainly used for smaller handbags and leather accessories.
Chèvre
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Chèvre is a fine-grained, slightly glossy leather known for its refined texture. It is lighter than cowhide and resistant to scratches, making it both luxurious and highly practical for everyday use. Beyond its elegant appearance, Chèvre is also durable, maintaining its color and texture over time. Its vibrant shades pair especially well with colorful designs, making it an excellent option for those who enjoy accessories with a pop of color.
Coromandel
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Introduced in 1998, Coromandel is made from the hides of female kid goats. Compared with Chèvre, it has more pronounced grains and symmetrical patterns across the surface. The texture is moderately soft and offers a rich, supple feel in the hand, balancing structure and comfort beautifully.
Astrakhan
Astrakhan is a unique material developed through selective breeding to enhance the texture and feel of young goat or lamb pelts. Originally, the term referred to the fleece of Karakul lambs from Russia’s Astrakhan region, known for their distinctive, tightly curled hair. Today, similar curled hides are also categorized as Astrakhan. Hermès Astrakhan items are exceptionally rare and not often seen on the market.
Types of Ostrich Leather Used by Hermès
Ostrich leather is known for its distinctive texture and patterns that can’t be found in cowhide. Hermès primarily uses two types of ostrich leather.
Ostrich
Ostrich leather comes from ostriches native to South Africa and Australia. Its most recognizable feature is the raised dotted pattern on the surface, known as “quill marks,” which appear where the feathers were plucked. These natural bumps give the leather a polka-dot-like appearance that adds a unique accent to any item.
Interestingly, only about 40% of an ostrich hide features quill marks, making it a highly valuable material. Hermès further enhances this exclusivity by using only the most uniform sections where the quill marks are evenly distributed.
Ostrich leather is not only lighter than cowhide but also extremely durable and soft to the touch, making it both luxurious and practical. Thanks to its excellent dye absorption, it’s used across a wide range of Hermès items in beautifully vivid colors.
Emu
The emu, a species native to Australia, produces leather with much smaller and flatter quill marks compared to that of the ostrich. Because it lacks the raised bumps characteristic of traditional ostrich leather, emu leather has a smoother texture.
Emu leather was primarily used when ostrich leather was in short supply. However, due to limited hide yield from the emu’s smaller body and overall low production numbers, it is now rarely used by Hermès.
Types Of Buffalo Leather Used By Hermès
Buffalo leather comes from animals that live in rivers and wetlands. It is naturally water-resistant and thicker than cowhide, giving it outstanding durability.
Buffle
Buffle leather is both soft and strong, combining flexibility with excellent water resistance. Its coarse grain gives it a casual and rugged look, making it a perfect match for everyday styles. Hermès uses this material for the Garden Party.
Buffle Gala
Buffle Gala is a softened version of naturally stiff buffalo leather. It features a finer grain and a subtle sheen, giving it a refined and elegant appearance. Unlike Buffle, Buffle Gala is used exclusively for small leather goods rather than bags.
Dalmatian
Shop Hermès Birkin Bags in Beige
As the name suggests, Dalmatian leather is designed to resemble the spotted pattern of the Dalmatian dog. The texture of the leather is used creatively through a double-dyeing process to achieve this look. Color codes such as “101” and “102” reference the Disney film “101 Dalmatians.”
In addition to the classic black-and-white pattern, this leather was once available in a variety of colors, including orange. However, it has since been discontinued and is no longer produced.
Other Unique Materials Used By Hermès
Although Hermès is best known for its fine leathers, the brand also creates items using innovative and unconventional materials. Here are two notable examples.
Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber is a lightweight, high-strength carbon-based material that also resists heat and expansion. Hermès first introduced it in the attaché case “Espace,” created to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary.
The black carbon fiber body reflects light beautifully, creating a sleek and modern finish. The material is also used in the “Hermès H08 Chronograph” watch, demonstrating its versatility beyond leather goods.
Amazonia
Amazonia is a unique Hermès material made by coating canvas fabric with a rubber resin. Although it has a leather-like appearance, it offers superior water resistance and durability.
However, because Amazonia is sensitive to environmental conditions such as humidity and dryness, it tends to develop surface cracks or discoloration over time. For this reason, Hermès eventually discontinued the material, and repairs are no longer accepted by the brand.
Does Hermès Use Non-Leather Materials?
While leather remains at the heart of Hermès craftsmanship, the brand also offers several canvas-based materials that are known for their exceptional durability. Below are three examples.
Toile H
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Toile H derives its name from the French word “toile,” meaning cotton or linen fabric, combined with Hermès’ signature initial “H.” This basic Hermès canvas material is woven from two types of yarn in a plain weave pattern.
It has a distinctive textured surface typical of canvas, making it resistant to scratches and dirt. Toile H is available only in off-white, but when combined with different leather textures and colors, it creates an elegant contrast that enhances the leather’s tone.
The material is used for a variety of items, including the Garden Party, Birkin, and Kelly bags.
Toile Chevron
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Toile Chevron is characterized by its beautiful V-shaped “herringbone” pattern. While canvas materials are generally casual, the chevron pattern adds a refined touch of luxury.
This material is both sturdy and soft, making it easy to use and highly functional. Hermès has used it in casual lines such as the Valparaiso and Acapulco. However, since both of these collections have been discontinued, Toile Chevron items are now mainly found in the resale market.
Toile Jean
Toile Jean is essentially a denim-like canvas with a fresh, clean tone. Known for its strength and resistance to friction, it is used in bags such as the Birkin and Evelyne, as well as in sneakers and other apparel items.
The combination of refined leather and casual Toile Jean fabric offers a modern, distinctive twist on the classic Hermès aesthetic.
How To Maintain The Quality Of Hermès Leather Goods
- Remove dust and dirt from the leather surface.
- Empty the contents and allow the leather to rest.
- Store in a cool, well-ventilated place away from direct sunlight.
To keep your Hermès leather items in pristine condition, it’s essential to prevent mold. Dirt left on the surface can lead to mold growth over time. After use, gently wipe the leather with a soft cloth or brush to remove any dust or residue.
When not in use, empty the bag or item to allow the leather to rest. For long-term storage, place it in its protective dust bag and store it in a dry, shaded area. To prevent shape distortion in bags, fill them with a bag pillow or soft towel.
If signs of wear such as scuffs or scratches appear over time, contact an official Hermès boutique. Although online sources may suggest using commercial creams or oils, Hermès does not recommend self-maintenance. The artisans at Hermès are the true experts on their own leather, and they offer maintenance even for pre-owned items. For that reason, it’s best to entrust repairs and care to Hermès directly.
Conclusion: About Hermès Leather Types
- Hermès offers a wide variety of materials, including cowhide, crocodile, lizard, goat, and canvas fabrics.
- To preserve the quality of the leather, it’s important to protect it from mold.
- For scratches and other issues, consult an official Hermès boutique for maintenance.
In this guide, we’ve explored the many types of leather Hermès uses. How many were you already familiar with? Use this information to select the material that best fits your lifestyle and fashion sense.
For a wide selection of Hermès pieces, visit the Gallery Rare luxury resale store. If you can’t make it in person, our official online store offers the same curated collection at your fingertips.
*Please note that the prices listed in our blog are for reference only and are converted from Japanese Yen (JPY) to US Dollars (USD) using the exchange rate of June 2025. Prices on the sales site include customs duties and shipping fees. Actual exchange rates may vary.